Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueStreak
I saw a film clip of some guys surfing in California back in the '60s. The place was rocky as hell. It looked very dangerous---As in smashed on the rocks dangerous. Is that the place?
Dave
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wedge_(surfing)
When the swell is coming in from the southwest it bounces off the breakwall and you get an interesting interference pattern in the waveform. Some say the name originated from the shape of the wave. There are a couple of videos in the wiki article that show how crazy it is. My physical therapist mentioned how good it is for their business. When I was much younger and pliable I used to body surf there now and then. The topology of the seafloor is super steep so these monsters tend to break right on the beach. If you time it wrong it'll spit you out right on to the sand and then crush you. Twelve to fifeteen foot faces aren't uncommon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&fe...&v=xiaFxhqgpqg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNH4lK6FArA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBGndmHfK5w